My April book pick is here!
An elegant debut about a London women's ambitions and desires. Piglet, a cookbook editor and passionate home cook, seems to have it all—a promising career, loyal friends, and an affluent fiancé, Kit. But when Kit betrays her weeks before their impending nuptials, Piglet becomes consumed by a deep hunger. As her wedding day approaches, pressure mounts from family, work, and her need for perfection, leaving Piglet unsettled and conflicted. Torn between her dreams and the desire for what she truly deserves, she faces a revelation about the lies we tell ourselves just to cope. A stylish, clever exploration of food, desire, and the messiness of life.
I deeply enjoyed this book — a Ruth Reichl-esque caliber of food writing in a tragic tale of one woman’s quest to fill her cup. A hidden secret, class and family dynamics, and well written characters — my kind of novel. After reading reviews of it, I realize that I am not always looking for my all time favorite book, but instead to be entertained, to be surprised and delighted by writing, and to actually finish it. This book did all three. My big complaint is that I wish the author had revealed her real name.
My preference for books with tortured female protagonists lives on!
4 out of 5 stars.
And, as I thought about the recipe that I would share for this book, this bagna cauda pasta with spring vegetables and garlicky breadcrumbs came to mind. Bagna Cauda (aka anchovy, chili, garlic, and olive oil) is one of my comfort foods and a dish I have been making for myself since 2009. Piglet would have liked it, and devoured it.
As I would, I added extra vegetables and a crunchy element to this original version of this dish I learned from my mentor chef, but feel free to make it your own— you can add kale instead of asparagus, Mama Lil’s instead of red pepper flakes, or crispy shallots instead of breadcrumbs. If you are vegan, skip the anchovies and bump up the garlic and chili flakes.
Make sure to use a really good olive oil. This dish is simple and you can taste all elements clearly. Using the highest quality of each ingredient is a must.
Bagna cauda pasta with roasted vegetables and garlicky breadcrumbs
Serves 4
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
12 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
12 anchovies, packed in oil
1/2 c. good olive oil, plus 2 Tbsp
1/2-1 tsp chili flakes
1 small head romanseco, cut into 2 inch chunks
1/2 # asparagus trimmed on the bias
1 lemon, zested
1 # long pasta, fresh or dried
2 Tbsp garlic, grated
1/2 c. panko bread crumbs
2 Tbsp salted butter
¼ tsp cracked black pepper
1/4 c. flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1/4 c. fresh mint, roughly chopped
1/2 c. Parmigiano Reggiano
Boil a large pot of water, and season it with 2 Tbsp of salt. Fill a large bowl with ice water and place to the side. Once the pot comes to a boil, blanch romanesco until just tender, about 3-4 minutes. With a strainer, pull romanesco out, of the boiling water. Immediately place in ice bath. DO NOT DRAIN THE WATER. IT WILL BE USED AGAIN FOR THE PASTA. Once cooled, strain the romanesco.
Meanwhile, in a medium-large heavy bottomed pan (that will be big enough to add in all of your pasta), add in the 1/2 c. olive oil, garlic, anchovies, and chili flakes. Heat on medium low until the anchovies have softened and the garlic is dancing in the pan, but not burning. You know it is done when the garlic has softened into the olive oil and the anchovies are no longer recognizable.
Add in the blanched romanesco, freshly cut asparagus, and lemon zest to the anchovy mix and set aside.
Bring the large pot of water back to a boil. Cook pasta according to the package instructions.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, add in the grated garlic, butter and breadcrumbs. Cook on medium until just toasted and you can smell the garlic. Season with 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper.
Add the cooked pasta to the anchovy mix with 1/4 c. of pasta water and toss to coat for a few minutes until the heat from the pasta softens the asparagus and everything is incorporated. Add in more pasta water as needed. Toss with chopped mint and parsley and Parmigiano Reggiano and taste for seasoning. Serve individually or family style and top with garlicky breadcrumbs.
Helpful tips:
You can use broccoli rabe, broccolini, broccoli, or sauteed kale instead of romanesco — make it your own!
Don’t be scared of the anchovies. If you like salt, you will LOVE anchovies.
Here is how you can efficiently cut a romanesco. It is similar to a cauliflower and all parts can be eaten.
Feel free to roast the romanesco rather than blanch it. I have tried it both ways, and both are delicious.
Let me know if you make this!
Be Well,
KBW