Ask a holistic esthetician
Jenn Kenner, co-founder of Spruce Apothecary, talks her morning and evening routine, her *real* thoughts on “skin types”, and shares her fave product recommendations
“The skin is a reflection and a roadmap of internal health, so if I’m looking a little dull or congested, I make adjustments both internally and externally to feel better both inside and out.”
Hello friends!
Please meet Jenn Kenner - holistic aesthetician and one of my dear friends. Jenn and I have known each other from around our community for years, but really connected living in the same part of Seattle (West Seattle!), having two children under two! (It’s not for the faint of heart and really bonds you.)
Jenn is the co-founder of Spruce Apothecary, a native of the Pacific Northwest, and passionate about green beauty, wellness, and sustainability. In addition to her background as a holistic esthetician, she gained much of her knowledge of health and wellness, immunity, and self-care from her own health journey: a long, intense battle with chronic Lyme disease. This experience inspired her to curate a unique lineup of non-toxic products at Spruce in order to help consumers lower their toxic burden, find wellness from the inside out, and become their most vibrant selves. In her free time, she enjoys spending time with her partner + children + dog (Birdie!), going to the local farmers market, vegetarian cooking, visiting the San Juan Islands, and spending time at any PNW beach.
She generously allowed me to interview her, and I hope you all get some nuggets from her expertise. And, if you know me, you know I am OBSESSED with skincare and making sure my skin barrier is healthy and functioning and I learned so much from her.
Enjoy this deep-
dive into Jenn’s skin care routine.
Tell me about your background and story? How did you get into skincare?
As a kid, I remember reading the back of every bottle and skincare jar my mom had in her bathroom. I would study the ingredients and read the descriptions and claims about what the product would say it would do. I guess I have always been an investigator and product-junky. In college, I got my degree in Sociology, loved studying humans and their behavior, but didn’t necessarily want to be a social worker. In my early 20’s I had a variety of jobs and Internships, but realized I didn’t ever want to work in an office in front of a computer. During that time my sister and I occasionally visited a really charming and talented esthetician, and one visit she pointed out that I would do well in her job. My first job after completing holistic skincare school was working for her, and that was almost 20 years ago. I was always more into organic products and natural skincare, but about 11 years ago, it became much more important to me when I became incredibly sick and was subsequently diagnosed with Chronic Lyme Disease. I was forced to do a deep dive into everything I was consuming, everything I was putting in and on my body, and using in my home. Despite deeply struggling to claim back my health, I learned so much from my many doctors and healers, I felt like I could have earned a degree in wellness. Ultimately, I learned that I was my own greatest healer, and wanted to empower others to do the same, in whatever health circumstances they are facing.
Describe your skincare POV
I believe the most important thing is to keep the skin strong and the barrier layer (also called the acid mantle) intact. Having a strong barrier layer means there aren’t holes in the cell wall and a balanced microbiome - so the good things remain in and there is a little layer of protection from things we’d like to keep out. Our skin is our largest organ, exposed to so much and works hard for us; it absorbs about 60% of what we put on it directly into our bloodstream. A strong barrier ultimately means less inflammation and redness, more hydrated and balanced skin, less breakouts and more resilient skin.
The most common culprits to break down the barrier layer are harsh cleansers and exfoliants, over-cleansing and exfoliating, and also intense weather, like wind or really cold climates.
The place I always start with new clients is their cleanser, because that one thing affects how the skin behaves more than anything else. Everyone’s skin is between 4.5-5.5 on the pH scale, but many cleansers on the market are much more alkaline, so in time, will really disrupt the barrier and create unhappy skin.
What is your morning routine?
This has simplified immensely after having two children under the age of 2 years old, since I have to hit the ground running in the morning. As I am often getting ready - or halfway ready very quickly - I just use the Ursa Major Face Tonic and Ursa Major Mountain Glow Serum and go. My skin is generally quite dry and needy, but in a pinch this will get me by.
For at least a decade I have used the Ursa Major Essential Face Tonic in the morning instead of a cleanser. I swear by it. It’s super refreshing, balancing, brightening, and gentle, and preps the skin for your other products. I follow that with a Vitamin C serum, which right now is the Marie Veronique C & E serum. Vitamin C is really important because it’s a powerful antioxidant, it helps with sun damage, and is a precursor to our own collagen production. It’s a water soluble vitamin, so daily application is really key for age support and healthy skin. You want to look for a Vitamin C with Ferulic Acid to increase its stability and efficacy.
In the winter I like a richer moisturizer like the Berlin Skin Blue Tansy cream, or a good facial oil, followed by the July Sky or Unsun SPF. In the warmer months, I like a lighter moisturizer, like the Nue Company Barrier Culture Moisturizer.
What is your nighttime routine?
I really prioritize giving my skin some love at night, no matter how tired I feel. As an adult I very rarely go to bed with an unwashed face (and those times were late nights in my 20’s 🙂) . I'm a big fan of an oil cleanser to keep the skin hydrated and strong. My personal favorite is the Marie Veronique Pure E&O Free Oil Cleanser. It has the most lovely gentle lather when water is added, and when finished the skin feels so soft and clean. Then Ursa Major Essential Face Tonic, followed by the Marie Veronique Soothing B3 Serum, and/or the Barrier Restore Serum, depending on what is going on with my skin. I’ll usually top with Marie Veronique Barrier Lipid Complex, or the Ursa Major Mountain Glow Serum and/or a skin balm or moisturizer. Once or twice a week I use a gentle yet effective, microbiome-friendly retinol from Marie Veronique. If I am having some hormonal breakouts, I might use the Linne Purify Wash, Eminence Eight Greens Mask, Josh Rosebrook Cacao Antioxidant Mask or the Marie Veronique Treatment Oil.
Your fave product for each of the skin types?
I have a hard time categorizing “skin types” as the skin is much more nuanced… I think of each person’s skin like their personality, so many layered qualities and very unique.
I have a few favorite products that are good for most any skin. I have a hard time categorizing “skin types” as the skin is much more nuanced… I think of each person’s skin like their personality, so many layered qualities and very unique. Even when it comes to acneic skin there are so many different kinds of acne — it could be related to topical products or hormones, and diet or gut health issues. Someone can have dry or dehydrated skin with acne, and in another case someone else could have acne with oily skin. For example, someone might be labeled as having “sensitive skin,” but a good esthetician may see that it is not necessarily sensitive, but reactive; when the barrier layer breaks down it can cause the skin to react to things it normally wouldn’t.
Despite what media and skincare propaganda says, everyone needs a visit to a skilled esthetician to do a proper evaluation and really get into the nitty gritty of your skin.
How to get dewier skin? Your skin always looks so hydrated and plump!
I try to follow these guidelines for myself: the skin is a reflection and a roadmap of internal health, so if I’m looking a little dull, I make adjustments both internally and externally to feel better both inside and out.
Drink lots of water, eat a reasonably balanced diet, take omega 3s (I love Orlo for plant based and extremely bioavailable and easy to take form) and pay attention to digestion
Try to sweat daily- exercise, infrared sauna, and/or hot salt baths
Cleanse at night with a gentle cleanser to get the day off my skin. I prefer a gentle toner or face tonic in the morning or after a workout.
Prioritize quality products, especially a great serum or two (a well made serum will have a small molecular structure and quality ingredients) and keep the skin hydrated
Layer products thinnest to thickest
Exfoliate (GENTLY) once or twice a week to remove dead cells and allow products to penetrate better. When in doubt or struggling with barrier function, a gentle enzyme like the Botnia Essential Enzymes is always a good bet.
Use a mineral SPF daily (Unsun and July Sky are effective, non toxic and feel good on the skin)
Mask weekly or whenever possible (favorites include Eminence Kombucha Mask and Eight Greens Mask, Josh Rosebrook Cacao Antioxidant Mask, and Omad Miracle Balm)
How often do you recommend getting a facial?
Every 4-6 weeks is ideal. The cell turnover for a young person - someone in their 20’s- is about 28 days, and that process slows down as we age. So, ideally everyone will come in around once a month for a facial. If time or budget doesn’t allow that frequency, every season is a nice check in.
How often do you recommend using actives?
This all depends on the individual’s skin, which actives, and how strong they are. I recommend seeing an esthetician for guidance on this. If the barrier layer is broken down, none at all until we can work together to repair it.
I am currently using the Marie Veronique Gentle Retinol Night Serum a couple times a week. I love it because it is super gentle, and also contains Vitamin C.
Where to find you?
I currently am seeing clients Mondays and every other Tuesday at Spruce Apothecary. We have a really talented team of estheticians who also are available to help you on your skincare journey every day of the week.
Final thoughts…
Skincare doesn’t need to be complicated. It’s what works best for you, your lifestyle, and your schedule. A good esthetician will keep all these things in mind when creating an individual’s skincare routine, working with a client's preferences alongside what the skin needs. Even preference packaging such as a pump (dropper or jar ), or what products work best within someone’s budget. Navigating the skincare world can be super overwhelming, there is SO much out there, many products are simply not worth the money, and also so many ingredients to avoid to protect your health (and the health of the planet.) Spending the money to invest in your skin is not a small thing either! Leaning into a knowledgeable professional is always a good bet, and we are happy to help.
I hope this interview with Jenn was inspiring! Let me know what you learned in the comments.
XO, KBW